Hair styling compositions containing aqueous wax dispersions

ABSTRACT

The present invention is directed to a hair styling composition and methods of using the composition, wherein the composition comprises: (a) an aqueous dispersion containing: (i) at least one solid wax particle having a particle size ranging from equal to or greater than 1 micron to about 100 microns and comprising at least one wax having a melting point of greater than 35° C.; (ii) a surfactant mixture comprising at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant; and (iii) water; and (b) at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to compositions containing aqueous waxdispersions and methods of using these compositions to shape or positionthe hair. More particularly, the invention is directed to hair stylingcompositions containing an aqueous dispersion comprising a solid waxparticle, a surfactant mixture comprising a nonionic surfactant and anionic surfactant, and water.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Consumer products such as cosmetics, personal care, and householdproducts, as well as pharmaceutical and industrial products, employingredients that allow these products to form a film or coating onvarious substrates such as keratinous substrates (e.g., hair and skin),hard surfaces (e.g., wood and metal), and other non-keratinoussubstrates, (e.g., fabrics and articles). Those ingredients which helpform a film or coating on the surface of a substrate may be chosen froma variety of raw materials such as waxes, polymers, resins and oils. Atthe same time, products which employ these ingredients are designed toimpart certain desirable properties such as shine, water resistance,transfer resistance, scratch resistance, color and a glazed appearanceto a surface.

In particular, waxes are highly desirable in cosmetics and personal careproducts in order to provide properties such as shine, smoothness, andslipperiness to various types of surfaces, as well as a protectivecoating against external factors such as exposure to water or moistureand physical rubbing. Also, hair styling products which contain one ormore of the above-mentioned ingredients can be used to impart shape orstyle to the hair and/or to help maintain a particular hair style. Theseingredients can also be used to provide a water-resistant film orcoating on the hair, and also to help maintain the appearance andcondition of hair upon exposure to extreme environmental conditions, forexample, high or low humidity, which can cause the hair to becomefrizzy. In addition, these ingredients can provide structure and textureto the products and a certain feel and texture to the hair.

Nevertheless, consumers continuously seek new hair cosmetic and haircare products with improved performance and therefore, challenges stillexist today in terms of optimizing or enhancing the performance of theseingredients in such products. For example, there are numerous hairstyling/shaping products on the market such as temporary and permanentstyling products. However, the effects of temporary styling productsgenerally last for only a relatively short period of time. Thus, inorder to re-shape or re-style the hair, the consumer has to eitherre-apply a hair styling product and/or wash the hair again followed by anew application of the product and restyling the hair. Permanent stylingalso has the drawback of having to treat the hair with permanent wavingor straightening/relaxing chemical treatments which may damage the hair.

Moreover, the formulation of waxes, polymers, resins and oils in variousgalenic forms of hair cosmetic products such as sprays, foams,emulsions, gels, mousses, pastes and sticks may pose a challenge sincesome of these ingredients may not be easily introduced and/or dispersedinto these galenic forms. In addition, the final formulas using theseingredients have to remain stable over time.

For example, waxes are traditionally employed in a paste or pomade butmay not be easily formulated in a spray or foam product, particularly ata concentration that will be sufficient to impart the desirableattributes obtained from a wax ingredient. The type of wax may alsoaffect the stability and dispersion of the wax particles in theformulation since wax particles could agglomerate. Certain waxes mayalso result in an undesirable rough texture and/or sticky and tacky feelof the product and/or to the treated substrate. In paste formulas, waxesare first melted and then blended with oils, plasticizers, clays and/orany other additives. In other words, formulating with waxes still posesa challenge with respect to optimizing the benefits that can be obtainedfrom the wax or waxes themselves. Thus, there still exists a need toimprove how ingredients such as waxes, polymers, resins and oils can beformulated into various galenic forms, and at the same time, deliver thebenefits derived from these ingredients and enhance the performance ofother ingredients.

Thus, various technologies directed towards the use of waxes, polymers,resins and oils have been developed. For example, shape memory polymers(SMPs) have been found to have the ability to change shape andtherefore, provide certain materials made of such polymers with theability to change their shapes or revert back to their original shapeupon deformation, particularly, when an external stimuli such as heat orlight is applied; SMPs may be used in packaging films, fabrics andmedical devices (Marc Biehl and Andreas Lendlein (2007). Shape MemoryPolymers, Materials Today. 10 (4), pp. 20-28). In the area of cosmeticsand hair care, US20080311050 and US20070275020 teach the use of shapememory polymers in hair treatment compositions. However, SMPs aretypically complex polymer systems which may pose challenges in synthesisprocedures and formulation in terms of the choice of solvents anddelivery/galenic form.

Other teachings, such as DE2810130, disclose applying a polyamide powderonto hair and heating the hair to bond the hair in a particular style;however, this reference does not teach that the hair can be re-styled orre-positioned and appears to be directed to wigs. WO8904653 andWO8901771 disclose the use of heat-activated hair styling compositionscontaining water-soluble polyethylene oxide polymers. EP1174113, U.S.Pat. No. 7,998,465 and US20120070391 are directed to the use of specificpolymers, including thermofusible polymers, heat-expandable particlescomprising certain polymers, and polysiloxanes and silanes. However, theuse of polymers may still result in sticky formulas, may be difficult toformulate into a stable dispersion as a result of compatibility issueswith surfactants, and do not necessarily provide a long lasting coat orfilm or the ability to easily re-style or re-position the hair withoutreapplying a product, for example.

U.S. Pat. No. 7,871,600, U.S. Pat. No. 6,066,316, JP2003012478,US20060292095 and US20060263438 teach the preparation of wax and oildispersions in hair cosmetic compositions. For instance, U.S. Pat. No.7,871,600 teaches the use of a wax dispersion in a hair stylingcomposition. However, said composition additionally requires a stylingpolymer and a relatively high amount of wax of from 30% to 45% by weightof the composition. U.S. Pat. No. 6,066,316 discloses fine waxdispersions containing wax, an amphoteric surfactant and a nonionicsurfactant where the size of the wax particles is about 30 nm and thenonionic surfactant is directed towards a specific class, i.e.,polyoxypropylene alkyl ethers. JP2003012478 teaches a hair compositionwith hair-remodelling properties comprising an oil soluble material, anonionic surfactant and water; the oil soluble material contains fattyacid, higher alcohol and wax. US20060292095 and US20060263438 disclosedispersions of oil particles calibrated to specific sizes and shapes;these particles are for use in sunscreen and skin care compositions.Nevertheless, the preparation of wax and oil particle dispersions andformulating with these dispersions in various galenic forms may stillpose challenges, particularly since there are a number of factors toconsider when working with wax and oil particles such as size, shape,hardness and melting point. Another consideration is the challenge offinding a convenient and easy way of optimizing the benefits that aredelivered to substrates treated with the compositions containing thesedispersions. In particular, many challenges still exist, not only ineffectively introducing ingredients into products used to style andshape hair, but also in creating products which provide several benefitsto hair while having the appearance and texture that are desirable tothe consumer.

Thus, the ability to provide hair styling/shaping products to helpmaintain the shape of hair or to re-position/re-style the hair withoutreapplication of product, to provide humidity resistance and impartother desirable properties to hair such as shine, conditioning, softnessand combability as well while having good aesthetic features remain asadditional areas for improvement, particularly in connection with theuse of waxes in such products.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a hair styling composition comprising:

(a) an aqueous dispersion containing:

-   -   (i) at least one solid wax particle having a particle size        ranging from equal to or greater than 1 micron to about 100        microns and comprising at least one wax having a melting point        of greater than 35° C.;    -   (ii) a surfactant mixture comprising at least one nonionic        surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant; and    -   (iii) water; and

(b) at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier.

The present invention also relates to a method of shaping hair, themethod comprising:

(a) applying onto the hair, a composition containing an aqueousdispersion and a cosmetically acceptable carrier;

wherein the aqueous dispersion comprises:

-   -   (i) at least one solid wax particle having a particle size        ranging from equal to or greater than 1 micron to about 100        microns and comprising at least one wax having a having a        melting point of greater than 35° C.;    -   (ii) a surfactant mixture comprising at least one nonionic        surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant; and    -   (iii) water; and

(b) heating the hair in order to melt the at least one solid waxparticle.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

FIG. 1 shows optical microscopy views of wax dispersions comprisingsolid particles of beeswax having particle sizes ranging from 8-15microns, 2-8 microns, 1-6 microns and 2-10 microns.

FIG. 2 shows optical microscopy view of a hair styling compositioncontaining a wax dispersion comprising solid particles of beeswax havinga particle size ranging from 4-10 microns.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used herein, the expression “at least one” means one or more and thusincludes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

The term “comprising” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein isused in the inclusive sense of “having” or “including” and not in theexclusive sense of “consisting only of”. The terms “a” and “the” as usedherein are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, allnumbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditionsare to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term“about,” meaning within ±10% of the indicated number.

“Film former” or “film forming agent” or “film forming agent” as usedherein means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate towhich it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the filmformer has evaporated, absorbed into and/or dissipated on the substrate.

“Substituted” as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent.Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygenatoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such asacyloxyalky groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine or amino groups,acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups,thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups,and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

As used herein, the phrase “salts and derivatives thereof” is intendedto mean all salts and derivatives comprising the same functionalstructure as the compound they are referring to, and that have similarproperties.

As used herein, the term “applying a composition onto a substrate” andvariations of this phrase are intended to mean contacting the substrate,for example, a keratinous fiber such as hair, with at least one of thecompositions of the invention, in any manner.

As used herein, “formed from,” means obtained from chemical reaction of,wherein “chemical reaction,” includes spontaneous chemical reactions andinduced chemical reactions. As used herein, the phrase “formed from,” isopen ended and does not limit the components of the composition to thoselisted.

The term “stable” as used herein means that the composition does notexhibit phase separation and/or crystallization.

The term “treat” (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refersto the application of the compositions containing the aqueous dispersiononto the surface of a substrate.

The term “shaping” (and its grammatical variations) as used hereinincludes styling or placing a keratinous fiber such as hair, in aparticular arrangement, form or configuration; or altering the curvatureof a keratinous fiber or other substrate; or re-positioning a keratinousfiber or other substrate to a different arrangement, form orconfiguration.

The compositions and methods of the present invention can comprise,consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements andlimitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additionalor optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein orotherwise useful.

It was surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the solid waxparticles of the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure can beprepared in a controlled manner by using a surfactant mixture thatemploys a combination of a nonionic surfactant and an ionic surfactantand following an emulsification process. As a result, a fine dispersionof micron-sized wax particles of a narrow particle size distribution andwith minimal coalescence or agglomeration can be obtained. Moreover, thesolid wax particles in the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosureare advantageously substantially homogeneous with respect to theirshape. Furthermore, the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure canbe formulated into compositions of various galenic forms such as gels,mousses, lotions, creams, pastes, ointments, sprays and foams. It wasfound that when the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure wasadded into one of these galenic forms, the solid wax particles remainedhomogeneously and finely dispersed in the composition and saidcomposition is stable even during storage and exhibits no agglomerationor precipitation of the solid wax particles. Moreover, the resultingcomposition exhibits reduced or minimized stickiness or tackiness thatis generally attributed to the use of waxes.

The compositions containing the aqueous dispersion can be applied ontohair to form a film or coating.

It was also surprisingly and unexpectedly found that when the hairtreated with said compositions is exposed to heat, additional benefitsand attributes to the hair are achieved such as better adhesion andexcellent re-shapeability and/or re-positionability.

It was also found that the treated hair may undergo further re-shapingand re-positioning when it is re-heated without the need forreapplication of the compositions containing the aqueous dispersion ofthe present disclosure. Said compositions also impart a clean andnatural feel on the substrate, despite the presence of wax. Moreover,while the compositions containing the aqueous dispersion impart acoating or film onto hair, said compositions may easily be removed fromthe hair by washing with water or with conventional cleansing agents.

The attributes and benefits imparted to the hair by the application ofthe compositions of the present disclosure can also be observed evenafter the treated hair is washed. It was also surprisingly andunexpectedly found that while the compositions of the present disclosuremay contain cosmetic auxiliary ingredients such as film formingagents/polymers, these agents/polymers are not required in order toobtain the benefits and attributes provided by the compositions of thepresent disclosure.

Although not wanting to be bound by any particular theory, it isbelieved that upon applying the compositions containing the aqueousdispersion onto hair in conjunction with heating the hair to atemperature around or above the melting point of the wax comprising thesolid wax particle, the solid wax particles melt or soften, therebyallowing for the film or coating to be re-positioned on the hair and/orto adhere better to the hair. Thus, the solid wax particles areheat-activated or exposed to a heat stimulus in order to allow thecomposition containing the aqueous dispersion to achieve restylabilityand/or repositionability effects on the hair.

For example, heating hair with a heating device such as a flat iron or ablow dryer in conjunction with applying the hair styling compositionscontaining the aqueous dispersion onto hair provided re-positionabilityproperties to the hair such that a different hair style was createdwithout having to re-apply said compositions or without having to washthe hair first and re-applying said compositions. Thus, the use of thesehair styling compositions, preferably, in combination with a heatingstep allows one to maintain the shape/style or to re-shape orre-position the hair, for example, straighten hair, curl hair, redefinehair curl, or volumize the hair, in an easy and convenient manner aswell as in a less costly manner since one does not have to re-apply thecomposition.

The compositions of the present disclosure can also be used to deliverbeneficial/auxiliary ingredients to the hair and to allow theseingredients to remain longer on the hair as a result of the film orcoating formed on the hair.

Solid Wax Particle

The at least one solid wax particle of the aqueous dispersion has aparticle size ranging from equal to or greater than 1 micron to about100 microns, or such as from about 1 microns to about 100 microns, orsuch as from about 2 microns to about 100 microns, or such as from about3 microns to about 100 microns.

Furthermore, the particle size of the at least one solid wax particle inthe aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure may range from about 5microns to about 100 microns, or from about 5 microns to about 80microns, or such as from about 5 microns to about 50 microns, or such asfrom about 5 microns to about 25 microns, or such as from about 5microns to about 12 microns, or such as from about 5 microns to about 10microns.

The term “particle size” as used herein refers to the diameter of theparticle. For non-spherical particles, the particle size refers to thelargest diameter of the particles, i.e., the diameter in the dimensionhaving the largest diameter.

Preferably, the solid wax particles in the aqueous dispersion of thepresent disclosure have a narrow particle size distribution, that is,the average difference in the particle sizes of the solid wax particlesin an aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure is not more thanabout 20 microns, or not more than about 15 microns, or not more thanabout 10 microns, or not more than about 8 microns, or not more thanabout 6 microns, or not more than about 2 microns.

The shape of the solid wax particle may be spherical or ellipsoidal oroval. The terms “spherical” or ellipsoidal” or “oval” as used hereinalso mean that the solid wax particle has a uniform and substantiallyspherical or ellipsoidal or oval shape. The term “substantially” as usedin the context of the shape of a spherical particle means that theparticle is of substantially isotropic shape, i.e., it has a relativelyregular morphology.

Thus, the ratio of the lengths of the longest to the shortestperpendicular axes of the particle cross section can be at about 1:1 orat about 1.5:1 or at about 2:1 or at about 3:1. Moreover, a line ofsymmetry is not required when the solid wax particle has a sphericalshape. Further, the solid wax particle may have surface texturing, suchas lines or indentations or protuberances that are small in scale whencompared to the overall size of the solid wax particle and still besubstantially spherical or ellipsoidal or oval.

The solid wax particles in the aqueous dispersion of the presentdisclosure are preferably substantially homogeneous with respect totheir shape and particle size distribution. The term “substantially” asused in this context means that 50% of more of the solid wax particlesin an aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure are of the samespherical, ellipsoidal or oval shape and of the same particle size.

The particle size and shape of the solid wax particle of the presentdisclosure may be evaluated by any known method such as those describedin US patent application number 2006/0292095, for example, laserdiffraction, ultrasonic extinction (acoustic spectroscopy), photocross-correlation spectroscopy, granulometry, and image analysis(microscopy).

The solid wax particles of the present disclosure have a melting pointgreater than 35° C., such as from between greater than 35° C. to about250° C., or such as from between greater than 35° C. to about 120° C.,or such as from between about 40° C. to about 100° C.

Moreover, the solid wax particles comprise at least one wax having amelting point greater than 35° C., such as from between greater than 35°C. to about 250° C. or such as from between about 40° C. to about 100°C. The at least one wax having a melting point greater than 35° C. isdefined as having a reversible change of solid/liquid state. The meltingpoint of a wax in solid form is the same as the freezing point of itsliquid form, and depends on such factors as the purity of the substanceand the surrounding pressure. The melting point is the temperature atwhich a solid and its liquid are in equilibrium at any fixed pressure. Asolid wax begins to soften at a temperature close to the melting pointof the wax. With increasing temperature, the wax continues tosoften/melt until at a particular temperature, the wax completelybecomes liquid at a standard atmospheric pressure. It is at this stagethat an actual melting point value is given for the material underconsideration. When heat is removed, the liquefied wax material beginsto solidify until the material is back in solid form. By bringing thewax material to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to make itmiscible with other materials such as oils, and to form amicroscopically homogeneous mixture. However, when the temperature ofthe mixture is brought to room temperature, recrystallization of the waxwith the other materials in the mixture may be obtained.

The melting points of the wax(e)s and the solid wax particles of theaqueous dispersion of the present disclosure may be determined accordingto known methods or apparatus such as by differential scanningcalorimetry, Banc Koffler device, melting point apparatus, and slipmelting point measurements.

The wax(es) which comprises the at least one solid wax particle of thepresent disclosure and have a melting point of greater than 35° C. ischosen from waxes that are solid or semisolid at room temperature.

The wax(es) which comprises the at least one solid wax particle of thepresent disclosure may be chosen from waxes that have hardness valuesranging from about 0.001 MPa to about 15 MPa, or such as from about 1MPa to about 12 MPa, or such as from about 3 MPa to about 10 MPa.

The hardness of the wax may be determined by any known method orapparatus such as by needle penetration or using the durometer ortexturometer.

The wax comprising the at least one solid wax particle of the presentdisclosure is chosen from natural and synthetic waxes.

Natural waxes include animal, vegetable/plant, mineral, or petroleumderived waxes. They are typically esters of fatty acids and long chainalcohols. Wax esters are derived from a variety of carboxylic acids anda variety of fatty alcohols. The waxes comprising the solid wax particleof the present disclosure may also be known as solid lipids.

Examples of waxes comprising the at least one solid wax particle of thepresent disclosure include, but are not limited to, beeswax,hydrogentated alkyl olive esters (commercially available under the tradename phytowax olive), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanwax, cork fibre wax or sugar cane wax, rice wax, montan wax, paraffinwax, lignite wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, palmkernel glycerides/hydrogenated palm glycerides and hydrogenated oilssuch as hydrogenated castor oil or jojoba oil, sugarcane, retamo,bayberry, rice bran, soy, castor, esparto, japan waxes,hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate, Chinese wax, cetyl palmitate,lanolin, shellac, and spermaceti; synthetic waxes such as those of thehydrocarbon type and polyethylene waxes obtained from the polymerizationor copolymerization of ethylene, and Fischer-Tropsch® waxes, or elseesters of fatty acids, such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides whichare solid at temperatures of above 35° C., silicone waxes, such asalkyl- or alkoxydimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain rangingfrom 10 to 45 carbon atoms, poly(di)methylsiloxane esters which aresolid at 30° C. and whose ester chain comprising at least 10 carbonatoms, or else di(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, which is soldor manufactured by Heterene under the name HEST® 2T-4S, and mixturesthereof.

Other examples of waxes or solid lipids include C20-40 di- andtriglycerides, including those which contain unsaturated fatty acids,C20-40 fatty alcohols, C2-40 fatty amines and their compounds, andsterols.

The table below lists waxes whose melting points are greater than 35° C.and which are suitable for use in accordance with the presentdisclosure:

INCI name and/or Trade name Melting point (mp) Paraffin wax 57.3° C.Stearic alcohol 58.8° C. Carnauba wax 82.3° C. Ozokerite 66.8° C.microcrystalline wax 83.3° C. polyethylene wax 95.6° C. * HydrogenatedCastor oil 85.07° C. synthetic beeswax 51.2° C. * wax AC 540 98.4° C. *Beeswax 62.6° C. Candelilla wax 64.3° C. HydroxyoctacosanylHydroxystearate 76.8° C. Hydrogenated Castor wax 81.7° C. wax AC 40086.3° C. PVP/Eicosene Copolymer 37.8° C. polyethylene wax 83.9° C.Hydrogenated Jojoba wax 69.4° C. palm butter 58.4° C. rice bran wax78.6° C. * sumac wax 48.3° C. polyglycerol beeswax 63.1° C.Tricontanyl/PVP 68.8° C. * C20-40 Alkyl Stearate 72.5° C. siliconylbeeswax 53.4° C. Stearyl Stearate 57.1° C. polyethylene wax 71.8° C.polyethylene wax 92.9° C. ceresin wax 60.1° C. Ultrabee WD 61.3° C.Phytowax Olive 14 L 48 (hydrogenated 46.02° C. myristyl olive esters)Phytowax Olive 18 L 57 (hydrogenated 58.6° C. stearyl olive esters)Alcohol polyethylene wax 95.7° C. Koster wax K82P (anc.K80P) 69.6° C.Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel 40.7° C. Wax PentaerythritolDistearate 48.5° C. Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter 36.94° C. DI18/22 ADIPATE 64.13° C. DI 18/22 SEBACATE 66.44° C. DI 18/22OCTANEDIOATE 75.15° C. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax 75.46° C.K82P-S 67.97° C. K82P-VS 66.20° C. Silicone resin wax (Dow Corning ® SW-54.3-65.6° C. 8005) Polymethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane 67.8° C. * Alcoholpolyethylene wax 76.2° C. Pentaerythrityl tetrastearate 63.0° C.Tetracontanyl Stearate 65.1° C. fatty acid wax 63.7° C. Fischer-tropschwax 79.3° C. * behenyl alcohol 66.9° C. alkyl dimethicone wax 57.0° C.Stearyl Benzoate 40.6° C. Berry wax 47.5° C. Chinese insect wax 81.1°C. * Shellac wax 73.8° C. * Behenyl fumarate 74.5° C. Koster BK-42 40.5°C. * Koster KPC-56 58.5° C. Koster KPC-60 61.7° C. Koster KPC-63 65.2°C. Koster KPC-80 55.6° C. siliconyl candellila wax 66.8° C. Koster BK-3738.0° C. Ditrimethylolpropane tetrastearate 46.5° C. Synthetic Wax 70.7°C. Clariant Licowax KST 1 55.2° C. Betawax RX-13750 72.0° C.Dipentaerythrytol hexastearate 67.7° C. Ditrimethylolpropanetetrabehenate 67.5° C. Behenyl methacrylate grafted PDMS 48.6° C. Jojobaesters 56.7° C. Waxolive 55.8° C. Inholive 40.3° C. Phytowax Ricin 16 L64 69.1° C. * Phytowax Ricin 22 L 73 76.6° C. Burco LB-02 45.1° C.Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate 52.5° C. Hydrogenated Castor OilIsostearate 54.0° C. * Vegetable Wax 81.0° C. Hydrogenated MacadamiaSeed Oil 51.49° C. Synthetic Wax 51.4° C. Dioctadecyl Carbonate 56.7° C.Montan Wax 63.4° C. Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel 58.3° C.Extract * with several melting point peaks

Particularly preferred waxes having a melting point of greater than 35°C. are beeswax, commercially available from various suppliers,hydrogenated stearyl olive ester, and commercially available from thesupplier Sophim under the tradename, Phytowax Olive 18 L 57,hydrogenated myristyl olive ester, and commercially available from thesupplier Sophim under the tradename, Phytowax Olive 14 L 48, VP/eicosenecopolymer, commercially available from the supplier ISP under thetradenames, Antaron® V 220 or Ganex® V 220F, and ditrimethyloylpropanetetrastearate, commercially available from the supplier Heterene underthe tradename, HEST 2T-4S.

Other particularly preferred waxes having a melting point of greaterthan 35° C. are silicone waxes, including silsesquioxane resin waxessuch as C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl propylsilsesquioxane, commerciallyavailable as DOW CORNING SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax, from the company DowCorning and such as those described in WO2005/100444.

The wax(es) which comprises the at least one solid wax particle of thepresent disclosure have a melting point of greater than 35° C., or mayrange from about 40° C. to about 100° C., or such as from about 40° C.to about 80° C. The wax(es) which comprises the at least one solid waxparticle of the present disclosure may be chosen from soft waxes andfrom hard waxes. Soft waxes may be defined as those waxes which have amelting point of below about 70° C., and preferably, a melting point ofbelow about 60° C. Hard waxes may be defined as those waxes which have amelting point of equal to or greater than about 70° C., and preferably,a melting point of equal to or greater than about 60° C.

According to one embodiment, soft waxes according to the presentdisclosure include, but are not limited to, Paraffin wax, stearicalcohol, ozokerite, synthetic beeswax, beeswax, candelilla wax,PVP/eicosene copolymer, hydrogenated jojoba wax, palm butter, sumac wax,polyglyceryl beeswax, tricontanyl/PVP, siliconyl beeswax, stearylstearate, ceresin wax, hydrogenated myristyl olive esters (e.g.,phytowax olive 14 L 48), hydrogenated stearyl olive esters (e.g.,phytowax olive 18 L 57), Koster K82P, orange peel wax, Pentaerythritoldistearate, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, silicone resin wax,Polymethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, Pentaerythrityl tetrastearate,Tetracontanyl Stearate, fatty acid wax, behenyl alcohol, alkyldimethicone wax, Stearyl Benzoate, Berry wax, koster wax, siliconylcandelilla wax, Ditrimethylolpropane tetrastearate, Clariant Licowax KST1, Dipentaerythrytol hexastearate, Ditrimethylolpropane tetrabehenate,Behenyl methacrylate gréffé PDMS, jojoba esters, waxolive, inholive,phytowax ricin 16 L 64, hydrogenated macadamia seed oil, synthetic wax,dooctadecyl carbonate, montan wax, lemon peel extract,ditrimethyloylpropane tetrastearate, and C30-45 alkyldimethylsilylpropylsilsesquioxane. (check melting points of last two)

According to one embodiment, hard waxes according to the presentdisclosure, include, but are not limited to, carnauba wax,microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, hydrogenated castor oil, wax AC540, Hydroxyoctacosanyl Hydroxystearate, hydrogenated castor wax, wax AC400, rice bran wax, C20-40 alkyl stearate, Alcohol polyethylene wax,octanedioate, sunflower seed wax, fischer-tropsch wax, Chinese insectwax, shellac wax, benehyl fumarate, synthetic wax, betsawax RX-13750,phytowax ricin 22 L 73, and vegetable wax.

The wax having a melting point of greater than 35° C. and comprising theat least one solid wax particle of the present disclosure may beemployed in an amount ranging from about 10% to about 80% by weight, orpreferably from about 15% to about 60% by weight, or preferably fromabout 20% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of theaqueous dispersion of the present disclosure, including all ranges andsubranges therebetween.

In certain embodiments, the aqueous dispersions of the presentdisclosure comprise solid wax particles having different properties withrespect to hardness and/or melting point and/or shape and/or size.

The wax having a melting point of greater than 35° C. and comprising theat least one solid wax particle of the present disclosure may beemployed in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, orpreferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight, or more preferably fromabout 2% to about 8% by weight, or even more preferably from about 2% toabout 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of thepresent disclosure, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Additional Ingredients

The solid wax particle can further comprise additional ingredients suchas waxes having melting points of 35° C. or less, oils, emulsifyingpolymers, silicas, talc, clays, ceramides, and perfumes. Theseadditional ingredients can be added during the time of making theaqueous dispersion in order to either improve/modify the physicalproperties of the solid wax particles and/or to allow the solid waxparticles to provide other benefits in addition to the benefits obtainedfrom waxes.

Waxes Having Melting Points of 35° C. or Less

Suitable additional waxes that may further comprise the solid waxparticle are those waxes whose melting points are at 35° C. or less;these waxes include, but are not limited to, Hest 2T-5E-45,Ditrimethylolpropane tetralaurate, Koster BK-34, Fluoro Polymethylalkyldimethylsiloxane, Blend of Dilauryl Adipate and Ditetradecyl Adipate,Astrocaryum MuruMuru Seed Butter, Myrica Pubescens Wax, PEG-70 MangoGlycerides, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, hydrogenated Coco-glycerides.

Nevertheless, the waxes whose melting points are at 35° C. or less areselected such that the resulting melting point of the solid wax particleof the present disclosure is greater than 35° C.

Oils

Suitable oils that may comprise the solid wax particle include, but arenot limited to, mineral oils (paraffin); plant oils and natural oils(sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, grapeseed oil, olive oil, argan oil,tocopherol or vitamin E, shea butter oil, jojoba oil); synthetic oils,for instance perhydrosqualene, fatty acids or fatty esters (for instancethe C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoate sold under the trade name Finsolv® TN,commercially available from Innospec or Tegosoft® TN, commerciallyavailable from Evonik Goldschmidt, octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolateand triglycerides, including capric/caprylic acid triglycerides),oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty esters and ethers; or fluorooils, and polyalkylenes.

Other oils include for example: silicone oils, for instance volatile ornon-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic siliconechain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especiallycyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane;polydimethyl-siloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, whichare pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containingfrom 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyltrimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,diphenylmethyl-diphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; mixtures thereof.

Other suitable oils include, but are not limited to, volatilehydrocarbon-based oils such as, for example, volatile hydrocarbon oilshaving from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particularbranched C₈ to C₁₆ alkanes such as C₈ to C₁₆ isoalkanes (also known asisoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example,the oils sold under the trade names of Isopar™ or Permethyl®, and theirmixtures.

Other suitable oils include esters such as those of formula R₁COOR₂ inwhich R₁ represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residuecontaining from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 7 to 19 carbonatoms, and R₂ represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containingfrom 1 to 40 carbon atoms, including from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, and alsoincluding, for example, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, Purcellin oil(cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C₁₂ to C₁₅ alkylbenzoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and octanoates,decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols; hydroxylatedesters, for instance isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate, andpentaerythritol esters. Other suitable esters include polyesters,alkoxylated esters, and alkoxylated polyesters.

The oils may also be chosen from silicones. Suitable silicones include,but are not limited to, the silicone oils described above and othersilicones such as non-volatile silicones such as dimethicone fluidshaving viscosity values of equal to or greater than 300 cst, andpentaphenyldimethicone, also known as trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane,commercially available from Dow Corning under the tradename Dow Corning®555.

The oil(s) that may further comprise the solid wax particle of thepresent disclosure is selected such that the melting point of the solidwax particle is greater than 35° C. Preferably, the ratio of oil towax(es) ranges from between 1:100 to 20:100.

Emulsifying Polymers

The solid wax particles of the aqueous dispersion of the presentdisclosure may also comprise an emulsifying polymer, i.e. an amphiphilicpolymer.

Among the emulsifying polymers that are suitable for use in theinvention, mention may be made of:

POE-POP diblock and triblock copolymers such as those described inpatent U.S. Pat. No. 6,464,990;

polyoxyethylenated silicone surfactants such as those described inpatent U.S. Pat. No. 6,120,778;

non-crosslinked hydrophobic AMPSs such as those described in EP 1 466588;

amphiphilic acrylic polymers, such as PEMULEN TR-1 or TR-2 orequivalent;

the associative and gelling polymers described in US 2003/0138465;

heat-gelling polymers such as those described in patent applications US2004/0214913, US 2003/0147832 and US 2002/0198328 and FR2 856 923.

When they are present, the emulsifying polymer(s) may be introduced in acontent ranging from 0.1 percent to 15 percent by weight, or even from0.1 percent to 10 percent by weight and more particularly from 0.1percent to 5 percent by weight relative to the total weight of theaqueous dispersion.

Sunscreen Agents

The solid wax particle may further comprise one or more sunscreenagents. Representative sunscreen agents may be chosen from organic andinorganic sunscreens or UV filters.

The organic sunscreen agents are selected from water-soluble organicscreening agents, fat-soluble organic screening agents or agents whichare insoluble in the solvents presently included in suntan products, andmixtures thereof.

The organic sunscreen agents are especially selected from cinnamicderivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethanederivatives; camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; beta,beta-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazolederivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives;imidazolines; bis-benzazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA)derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives;benzoxazole derivatives; screening polymers and screening silicones;alpha-alkylstyrene-derived dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadienes; merocyaninderivatives; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of complementary organic photoprotective agents include thosedenoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:

Cinnamic Derivatives: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate marketed in particularunder the trademark “Parsol MCX®” by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.,Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate, Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate marketed underthe trademark “Neo Heliopan E 1000®” by Symrise, DEA Methoxycinnamate,Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.

Dibenzoylmethane Derivatives: [Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane marketedespecially under the trademark “Parsol 1789®” by DSM NutritionalProducts, Inc., Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.

Para-Aminobenzoic Acid Derivatives: PABA, Ethyl PABA, EthylDihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA marketed in particularunder the trademark “Escalol 507®” by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABAmarketed under the trademark “Uvinul P25®” by BASF.

Salicylic Derivatives: Homosalate marketed under the trademark “EusolexHMS®” by Merck KGaA/EMD Chemicals, Inc. and EMD Chemicals Inc,Ethylhexyl Salicylate marketed under the trademark “Neo Heliopan OS®” bySymrise, Dipropylene Glycol Salicylate marketed under the trademark“Dipsal™” by Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc., TEA Salicylate marketedunder the trademark “Neo Heliopan® TS” by Symrise.

Diphenylacrylate Derivatives: Octocrylene marketed in particular underthe trademark “Uvinul N539T®” by BASF, Etocrylene marketed in particularunder the trademark “Uvinul® N35” by BASF.

Benzophenone Derivatives: Benzophenone-1 marketed under the trademark“Uvinul® 400” by BASF, Benzophenone-2 marketed under the trademark“Uvinul® D50” by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone marketed under thetrademark “Uvinul® M40” by BASF, Benzophenone-4 marketed under thetrademark “Uvinul® MS40” by BASF, Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-6marketed under the trademark “Helisorb® 11” by Norquay, Benzophenone-8,Benzophenone-9, Benzophenone-12, n-Hexyl2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate marketed under the trademark“Uvinul® A+” by BASF.

Benzylidenecamphor Derivatives: 3-Benzylidenecamphor manufactured underthe trademark “Mexoryl™ SD” by Chimex, 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphormarketed under the trademark “Eusolex® 6300” by Merck, BenzylideneCamphor Sulfonic acid manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl™ SL” byChimex, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate manufactured under thetrademark “Mexoryl™ SO” by Chimex, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonicacid manufactured under the trademark “Mexoryl™ SX” by Chimex,Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under thetrademark “Mexoryl™ SW” by Chimex.

Phenylbenzimidazole Derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic acidmarketed in particular under the trademark “Eusolex® 232” by Merck andEMD INC., Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate marketed underthe trademark “Neo Heliopan® AP” by Symrise.

Phenylbenzotriazole Derivatives: Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Methylenebis(Benzotriazolyl) Tetramethylbutylphenol, or in micronized form as anaqueous dispersion under the trademark “Tinosorb® M” by BASF.

Triazine Derivatives: bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazinemarketed under the trademark “Tinosorb® S” by BASF, Ethylhexyl Triazonemarketed in particular under the trademark “Uvinul® T150” by BASF,Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone marketed under the trademark “Uvasorb®HEB” by 3V Group, 2,4,6-Tris(dineopentyl4′-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-Tris(diisobutyl4′-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4-Bis(n-butyl4′-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,2,4-Bis(dineopentyl 4′-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl4′-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, triazine agents, especially2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-1,3,5-triazines (in particular2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1,3,5-triazine and2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine.

Anthranilic Derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate marketed under thetrademark “Neo Heliopan® MA” by Symrise.

Imidazoline Derivatives: Ethylhexyl DimethoxybenzylideneDioxoimidazoline Propionate.

Benzalmalonate Derivatives: Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonatefunctions, for instance Polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark“Parsol® SLX” by DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.

4,4-Diarylbutadiene Derivatives:1,1-Dicarboxy(2,2′-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

Benzoxazole derivatives:2,4-Bis[5-(1-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-et-hylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazinemarketed under the trademark Uvasorb K 2A by Sigma 3V, and mixturesthereof.

The preferred organic sunscreen agents are selected from: EthylhexylMethoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, ButylMethoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid,Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, n-Hexyl2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Disodium PhenylDibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate, Methylene bis-BenzotriazolylTetramethylbutylphenol, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine,Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone,2,4,6-Tris(dineopentyl 4′-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,2,4,6-Tris(diisobutyl 4′-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,2,4-Bis(n-butyl 4′-aminobenzoate)-6-(aminopropyltrisiloxane)-s-triazine,2,4-Bis(dineopentyl 4′-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl4′-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-Tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-1,3,5-triazine,2,4,6-Tris(terphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, Drometrizole Trisiloxane,Polysilicone-15,1,1-Dicarboxy(2,2′-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,2,4-Bis[5-1-(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-et-hylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine,and mixtures thereof.

Examples of inorganic sunscreen agents or UV filters include, but arenot limited to, metal oxide pigments which may be chosen from zincoxide, titanium oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, andmixtures thereof.

The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

The coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surfacetreatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanicalnature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fattyalcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium potassium, zinc, ironor aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or ofaluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin),alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

Preferably, the sunscreen agents that may be comprise the solid waxparticle are oil-soluble (or fat-soluble) and may be encapsulated withinlow melting point temperature materials.

The sunscreen agents of the present invention may be employed in anamount of from about 0.1% to about 40% by weight, such as from about0.5% to about 30% by weight, such as from about 1% to about 25% byweight, based on the total weight of the solid wax particle comprisingthe aqueous dispersion.

Pigments/Dyes

The pigments/dyes that may further comprise the solid wax particle arepreferably soluble in oil and include, but are not limited to,permanent, semi-permanent and/or temporary dyes.

Representative pigments include white, colored, inorganic, organic,polymeric, nonpolymeric, coated and uncoated pigments. Representativeexamples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, optionallysurface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides,chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate,and ferric blue. Representative examples of organic pigments includecarbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochinealcarmine, barium.

The direct dyes and oxidation dyes which may be used in the presentinvention are those dyes employed to color hair and textile fabrics.Representative oxidation dyes include, but are not limited topara-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols,ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition saltsthereof. Representative direct dyes include, but are not limited to,azo, methane, carbonyl, azine, nitro (hetero)aryl,tri(hetero)arylmethane, porphyrin, phthalocyanin direct dyes, andnatural direct dyes.

Silicas, Talc, and Clays

The solid wax particle may further comprise sub-micron-sized tomicron-sized particles of silica, talc, and/or clays, which include, butare not limited to, montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite,sepiolite, laponite, smectite, kaolin, and their mixtures.

These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen fromquaternary ammoniums, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazo lines,amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkylarylsulphonates, amine oxides andtheir mixtures.

Mention may be made, as organophilic clays, of quaternium-18 bentonites,such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38 or Bentone 38Vby Rheox, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst or Claytone 34, Claytone 40 orClaytone XL by Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as thosesold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalystor Claytone AF or Claytone APA by Southern Clay; or quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites, such as those so 1d under the names ClaytoneHT or Claytone PS by Southern Clay.

Suitable silicas may include pyrogenic silicas obtained by hightemperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogenflame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possiblein particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which exhibit a large numberof silanol groups at their surfaces.

It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by achemical reaction for the purpose of decreasing the number of silanolgroups. It is possible in particular to substitute silanol groups byhydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups can be:

-   -   trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by        treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of        hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are also named        “Silica silylate.”    -   dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are        obtained in particular by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the        presence of polydimethylsiloxane or of dimethyldichlorosilane.        Silicas thus treated are also named “Silica dimethyl silylate.”

The pyrogenic silica preferably exhibits a particle size which can besub-micron sized or micron sized, for example ranging from approximately5 to 200 nm.

The silica, talc, and/or clays may be present in an amount of from about0.01% to about 10% by weight, or preferably, from about 0.5% to about 2%by weight, based on the weight of the aqueous dispersion.

Ceramides

Ceramide compounds that may be useful according to various embodimentsof the disclosure include ceramides, glycoceramides, pseudoceramides,and mixtures thereof. The ceramides which may be chosen include, but arenot limited to, those described by DOWNING in Arch. Dermatol, Vol. 123,1381-1384 (1987), DOWNING in Journal of Lipid Research, Vol. 35, page2060 (1994), or those described in French patent FR 2673179.

Further exemplary ceramides that may be used according to variousembodiments of the disclosure include, but are not limited to, compoundsof the general formula (I):

wherein, in formula (I):

—R₁₈ and R₁₉ are, independently, chosen from alkyl- or alkenyl groupswith 10 to 22 carbon atoms, —R₂₀ is chosen from methyl, ethyl, n-propylor isopropyl groups, and

-n is a number ranging from 1 to 6, such as, for example, 2 or 3.

In further embodiments, ceramide compounds may be chosen from compoundsof formula (II), as described in US20050191251 and US20090282623:

wherein, in formula (II):

—R₁ is chosen from either a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branchedC₁-C₅₀, e.g. C₅-C₅₀, hydrocarbon radical, it being possible for thisradical to be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups optionallyesterified with an acid R₇COOH, R₇ being an optionally mono- orpolyhydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₁-C₃₅hydrocarbon radical, it being possible for the hydroxyl(s) of theradical R₇ to be esterified with an optionally mono- orpolyhydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₂-C₃₅fatty acid, or a radical R″—(NR—CO)—R′, R being chosen from a hydrogenatom or a mono- or polyhydroxylated, e.g. monohydroxylated, C₁-C₂₀hydrocarbon radical, R′ and R″ chosen from, independently, hydrocarbonradicals of which the sum of the carbon atoms is between 9 and 30, R′being a divalent radical, or a radical R₈—O—CO—(CH₂)p, R₈ denoting aC₁-C₂₀ hydrocarbon radical, p being an integer varying from 1 to 12; —R₂being chosen from a hydrogen atom, a saccharide-type radical, inparticular a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m and sulphogalactosyl radical, asulphate or phosphate residue, a phosphorylethylamine radical and aphosphorylethylammonium radical, in which n is an integer varying from 1to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8; —R₃ chosen from a hydrogenatom or a hydroxylated or nonhydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated,C₁-C₃₃ hydrocarbon radical, it being possible for the hydroxyl(s) to beesterified with an inorganic acid or an acid R₇COOH, R₇ having the samemeanings as above, and it being possible for the hydroxyl(s) to beetherified with a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m, sulphogalactosyl,phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammonium radical, it being alsopossible for R₃ to be substituted with one or more C₁-C₁₄ alkylradicals; —R₄ being chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl or ethylradical, an optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated orunsaturated C₃-C₅₀ hydrocarbon radical or a radical —CH₂—CHOH—CH₂—O—R₆in which R₆ denotes a C₁₀-C₂₆ hydrocarbon radical or a radicalR₈—O—CO—(CH₂)p, R₈ chosen from a C₁-C₂₀ hydrocarbon radical, p being aninteger varying from 1 to 12; and —R₅ denotes a hydrogen atom or anoptionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated orunsaturated C₁-C₃₀ hydrocarbon radical, it being possible for thehydroxyl(s) to be etherified with a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m,sulphogalactosyl, phosphorylethylamine or phosphorylethylammoniumradical, —with the proviso that when R₃ and R₅ denote hydrogen or whenR₃ denotes hydrogen and R₅ denotes methyl, then R₄ does not denote ahydrogen atom, or a methyl or ethyl radical.

By way of example, ceramides of formula (IV) may be chosen from thosewherein R₁ is an optionally hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated alkylradical derived from C₁₄-C₂₂ fatty acids; R₂ is a hydrogen atom; and R₃is an optionally hydroxylated, saturated, linear C₁₁-C₁₇, e.g. C₁₃-C₁₅radical.

In yet further embodiments, ceramide compounds useful according to thedisclosure may be chosen from compounds of the general formula (III):

wherein, in formula (III):

—R₁ is chosen from a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylgroup, derived from C₂₄-C₃₀ fatty acids, it being possible for thisgroup to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha-position, ora hydroxyl group in the omega-position esterified with a saturated orunsaturated C₂₆-C₃₀ fatty acid;

—R₂ is chosen from a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)_(n), (galactosyl)_(m)or sulphogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8; and —R₃ is chosen from a C₅-C₂₆hydrocarbon-based group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha-position,it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or moreC₁-C₁₄ alkyl groups; it being understood that, in the case of naturalceramides or glycoceramides, R₃ may also be chosen from a C₅-C₂₆alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterifiedwith a C₁₆-C₃₀ alpha-hydroxy acid.

Exemplary ceramides of formula (III) which may be chosen includecompounds wherein R₁ is chosen from a saturated or unsaturated alkylderived from C₆-C₂₂ fatty acids; R₂ is chosen from a hydrogen atom; andR₃ is chosen from a linear, saturated C₁₅ group. By way of non-limitingexample, such compounds may be chosen fromN-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine,N-palmitoyldihydro-sphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine,N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures thereof.

As further non-limiting examples of ceramides, compounds wherein R₁ ischosen from a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fattyacids; R₂ is chosen from a galactosyl or sulphogalactosyl group; and R₃is chosen from the group —CH═CH—(CH₂)₁₂—CH₃ group, may be used. In atleast one exemplary embodiment, the product consisting of a mixture ofthese compounds, sold under the trade name Glycocer, by the companyWaitaki International Biosciences, may be used.

As further exemplary ceramides, mention may be made of the followingceramides, as described in US20110182839.

In further embodiments, ceramide compounds useful according to thedisclosure may be chosen from compounds of the general formula (IV):

wherein, in formula (IV):

—R₁₁ and R₁₂ are, independently, chosen from alkyl or alkenyl groupswith 10 to 22 carbon atoms,

—R₁₃ is an alkyl or hydroxyl alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

-n is a number ranging from 1 to 6, such as, for example, 2 or 3.

In at least one embodiment, the at least one ceramide compound is chosenfrom cetyl-PG-hydroxyethylpalmitamide. In a further embodiment, the atleast one ceramide compound is chosen from propanediamide,N,N-dihexadecyl-N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl), such as that sold commerciallyas Questamide H or Pseudoceramide H by the company Quest InternationalAustralia Pty. Ltd. In yet a further embodiment, the at least oneceramide compound is chosen from Cetyl-PG Hydroxylpalmatide/decylglucoside/water, sold as SOFCARE P100H by Kao.

The at least one ceramide compound is present in an amount ranging from0.001 percent to 20 percent by weight, for example, from 0.01 percent to10 percent by weight and further for example, from 0.1 percent to 0.5percent by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Inone embodiment, the at least one ceramide compound may be present in anamount of 0.5 percent by weight, relative to the total weight of theaqueous dispersion.

Perfumes

The solid wax particle may further comprise perfumes or fragrances toaid in the fragrance of the product and provide a time-release effect.The perfume can have a dual effect by not only providing a pleasantfragrance but also to provide shine to a treated substrate. The perfumesmay be present in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight,or preferably, from about 0.5% to about 2% by weight, based on theweight of the aqueous dispersion.

Surfactant Mixture

The surfactant mixture of the present disclosure comprises at least onenon ionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant.

In general, nonionic surfactants having a Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance(HLB) of from at least 5, such as from about 5 to about 20, or such asfrom about 5 to about 15, are contemplated for use by the presentinvention. Nonlimiting examples of nonionic surfactants useful in thecompositions of the present invention are disclosed in McCutcheon's“Detergents and Emulsifiers,” North American Edition (1986), publishedby Allured Publishing Corporation; and McCutcheon's “FunctionalMaterials,” North American Edition (1992); both of which areincorporated by reference herein in their entirety.

Examples of nonionic surfactants useful herein include, but are notlimited to, alkoxylated derivatives of the following: fatty alcohols,alkyl phenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and fatty acid amides,wherein the alkyl chain is in the C₁₂-C₅₀ range, preferably in theC₁₆-C₄₀ range, more preferably in the C₂₄ to C₄₀ range, and having fromabout 1 to about 110 alkoxy groups. The alkoxy groups are selected fromthe group consisting of C₂-C₆ oxides and their mixtures, with ethyleneoxide, propylene oxide, and their mixtures being the preferredalkoxides. The alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, orunsaturated. Of these alkoxylated non-ionic surfactants, the alkoxylatedalcohols are preferred, and the ethoxylated alcohols and propoxylatedalcohols are more preferred. The alkoxylated alcohols may be used aloneor in mixtures thereof. The alkoxylated alcohols may also be used inmixtures with those alkoxylated materials disclosed herein-above.

Other representative examples of such ethoxylated fatty alcohols includelaureth-3 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylationof 3), laureth-23 (a lauryl ethoxylate having an average degree ofethoxylation of 23), ceteth-10 (a cetyl alcohol ethoxylate having anaverage degree of ethoxylation of 10) steareth-10 (a stearyl alcoholethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 10), andsteareth-2 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree ofethoxylation of 2), steareth-100 (a stearyl alcohol ethoxylate having anaverage degree of ethoxylation of 100), beheneth-5 (a behenyl alcoholethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylation of 5), beheneth-10(a behenyl alcohol ethoxylate having an average degree of ethoxylationof 10), and other derivatives and mixtures of the preceding.

Also available commercially are Brij® nonionic surfactants from Uniqema,Wilmington, Del. Typically, Brij® is the condensation products ofaliphatic alcohols with from about 1 to about 54 moles of ethyleneoxide, the alkyl chain of the alcohol being typically a linear chain andhaving from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, for example, Brij® 72(i.e., Steareth-2) and Brij® 76 (i.e., Steareth-10).

Also useful herein as nonionic surfactants are alkyl glycosides, whichare the condensation products of long chain alcohols, e.g. C₈-C₃₀alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers. These compounds can berepresented by the formula (S)n-O—R wherein S is a sugar moiety such asglucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, and the like; n is an integer offrom about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C₈-C₃₀ alkyl group. Examples oflong chain alcohols from which the alkyl group can be derived includedecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristylalcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like. Preferred examples of thesesurfactants are alkyl polyglucosides wherein S is a glucose moiety, R isa C₈-C₂₀ alkyl group, and n is an integer of from about 1 to about 9.Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decylpolyglucoside (available as APG® 325 CS) and lauryl polyglucoside(available as APG® 600CS and 625 CS), all the above-identifiedpolyglucosides APG® are available from Cognis, Ambler, Pa. Also usefulherein are sucrose ester surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucroselaurate.

Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use in the present invention areglyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters and their derivatives, includingbut not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoestersof C₁₆-C₂₂ saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such asglyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate,glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and mixtures thereof, andpolyglyceryl esters of C₁₆-C₂₂ saturated, unsaturated and branched chainfatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate,polyglyceryl-2 sesquioleate, triglyceryl diisostearate, diglycerylmonooleate, tetraglyceryl monooleate, and mixtures thereof. glycerylester derivatives include, but are not limited to, polyethylene glycolethers of glyceryl esters such as PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-30glyceryl diisostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-30 glyceryllaurate, PEG-30 glyceryl oleate, and mixtures thereof.

Also useful herein as nonionic surfactants are sorbitan esters.Preferable are sorbitan esters of C₁₆-C₂₂ saturated, unsaturated andbranched chain fatty acids. Because of the manner in which they aretypically manufactured, these sorbitan esters usually comprise mixturesof mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters. Representative examples of suitablesorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (e.g., SPAN® 80), sorbitansesquioleate (e.g., Arlacel® 83 from Uniqema, Wilmington, Del.),sorbitan monoisostearate (e.g., CRILL® 6 from Croda, Inc., Edison,N.J.), sorbitan stearates (e.g., SPAN® 60), sorbitan trioleate (e.g.,SPAN® 85), sorbitan tristearate (e.g., SPAN® 65), sorbitan palmitate(e.g., SPAN® 40), and sorbitan isostearate. Sorbitan palimtate andsorbitan sesquioleate are particularly preferred for use in the presentdisclosure.

Also suitable for use herein are alkoxylated derivatives of glycerylesters, sorbitan esters, and alkyl polyglycosides, wherein the alkoxygroups is selected from the group consisting of C₂-C₆ oxides and theirmixtures, with ethoxylated or propoxylated derivatives of thesematerials being the preferred. Nonlimiting examples of commerciallyavailable ethoxylated materials include TWEEN® (ethoxylated sorbitanmono-, di- and/or tri-esters of C₁₂ to C₁₈ fatty acids with an averagedegree of ethoxylation of from about 2 to about 20).

Preferred nonionic surfactants are those formed from a fatty alcohol, afatty acid, or a glyceride with a C₄ to C₃₆ carbon chain, preferably aC₁₂ to C₁₈ carbon chain, more preferably a C₁₆ to C₁₈ carbon chain,derivatized to yield an HLB of at least 8. HLB is understood to mean thebalance between the size and strength of the hydrophilic group and thesize and strength of the lipophilic group of the surfactant. Suchderivatives can be polymers such as ethoxylates, propoxylates,polyglucosides, polyglycerins, polylactates, polyglycolates,polysorbates, and others that would be apparent to one of ordinary skillin the art. Such derivatives may also be mixed polymers of the above,such as ethoxylate/propoxylate species, where the total HLB ispreferably greater than or equal to 8. Preferably the nonionicsurfactants contain ethoxylate in a molar content of from 10-25, morepreferably from 10-20 moles.

Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants of the present disclosureare chosen from polyethylene glycol ethers of glyceryl esters, PEG-30glyceryl stearate and sorbitan esters such as sorbitan palmitate.

The nonionic surfactant will typically be employed in an amount of fromabout 60% to about 95% by weight, or from about 65% to about 90% byweight, or from about 70% to about 90% by weight, based on the totalweight of the surfactant mixture of the present disclosure.

Typically, the ionic surfactants contain a lipophilic hydrocarbon groupand a polar functional hydrophilic group.

The following anionic surfactants, which may be used alone or asmixtures, may be mentioned: mention may be made especially of the salts,in particular the alkali metal salts such as the sodium salts, theammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts or the salts ofalkaline-earth metals, for example of magnesium, of the followingcompounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ethersulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates;alkylsulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamidesulfonates,alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfoacetates; acylsarcosinates; andacylglutamates, the alkyl or acyl groups of all these compoundscomprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group preferablydenoting a phenyl or benzyl group. It is also possible to use esters ofC6-C24 alkyl and of polyglycoside-carboxylic acids, such as alkylglucoside citrates, polyalkyl glycoside tartrates and polyalkylglycoside sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionatesand N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compoundscontaining from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Among the anionic surfactantsthat may also be used, mention may also be made of acyl lactylates inwhich the acyl group contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Mention mayalso be made of alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and salts thereof, andalso polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylether-carboxylic acids,polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(C6-C24)arylethercarboxylic acids andpolyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids and saltsthereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxidegroups, and mixtures thereof.

Among the preferred anionic surfactants, mention may be made of thesalts, in particular of sodium, of magnesium or of ammonium, of alkylsulfates; of alkyl ether sulfates, for instance sodium lauryl ethersulfate, preferably containing 2 or 3 mol of ethylene oxide; of acylglutamates, for instance, disodium stearoyl glutamate and sodiumstearoyl glutamate; of alkyl ether carboxylates; and mixtures thereof,the alkyl or acyl groups generally containing from 6 to 24 carbon atomsand preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

Among the cationic surfactants, mention may be made of:

i) alkylpyridinium salts, ammonium salts of imidazoline, diquaternaryammonium salts, and ammonium salts containing at least one esterfunction;

ii) quaternary ammonium salts having the following general formula:

in which the radicals R1 to R4, which may be identical or different,represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl; thealiphatic radicals may optionally comprise heteroatoms (O, N, S orhalogens) and may optionally, be substituted.

The aliphatic radicals are chosen, for example, from C12-C22 alkyl,alkoxy, C2-C6 polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide,(C12-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl-acetate and hydroxyalkylradicals, containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. X— is an anion chosenfrom the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, C2-C6 alkylsulfates and alkyl or alkylarylsulfonates.

iii) quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula:

in which:

R5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbonatoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or of coconut,

R6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl oralkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical,

R8 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical,

X′ is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates,lactates, C2-C6 alkyl sulfates, alkylsulfonates or alkylarylsulfonates.

R5 and R6 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicalscontaining from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as, for example, fatty acidderivatives of tallow, R7 denotes methyl and R8 denotes hydrogen. Such aproduct is, for example, Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83(CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names Rewoquat® W75, W90, W75PGand W75HPG by the company Witco,

iv) diquaternary ammonium salts of formula:

in which:

R9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing from about 16 to 30 carbonatoms,

R10, R11, R12, R13 and R14, which may be identical or different, arechosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbonatoms, and

X— is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates,nitrates, ethyl sulfates and methyl sulfates.

Such diquaternary ammonium salts in particular comprisepropanetallowdiammonium dichloride;

v) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function,such as those of formula:

in which:

R15 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl ordihydroxyalkyl radicals;

R16 is chosen from the radical R19-CO—, linear or branched, saturated orunsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R20, a hydrogen atom;

R18 is chosen from the radical R21-CO, linear or branched, saturated orunsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals R22, a hydrogen atom;

R17, R19 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen fromlinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-basedradicals;

r, n and p, which may be identical or different, are integers rangingfrom 2 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from0 to 10;

X— is a simple or complex organic or mineral anion;

with the proviso that the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0,then R16 denotes R20 and that when z is 0, then R18 denotes R22.

The alkyl radicals R15 may be linear or branched, and more particularlylinear. Preferably, R15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl ordihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethylradical.

Advantageously, the sum x+y+z is from 1 to 10.

When R16 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R20, it may contain from 12 to22 carbon atoms, or contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R18 is a hydrocarbon-based radical R22, it preferably contains 1 to3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R17, R19 and R21, which may be identical or different,are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more particularly from linear orbranched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, n and p, which may be identical or different, are equalto 2 or 3 and even more particularly equal to 2.

The anion X— is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or aC1-C4 alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. The anion X— mayalso represent methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anionderived from an organic acid (such as acetate or lactate), or any otheranion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.

The surfactants may be, for example, the salts (chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, ofdiacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, ofmonoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, oftriacyloxyethylmethylammonium, ofmonoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. Theacyl radicals preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are moreparticularly derived from a plant oil, for instance palm oil orsunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, theseradicals may be identical or different. Such compounds are sold, forexample, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat®by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca, and Rewoquat® WE18 by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.

vi) quaternary ammonium salts and in particular behenyltrimethylammoniumchloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate,cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, quaternium-83,behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride andpalmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

Other suitable cationic surfactants are esterquats which are quaternaryammonium compounds having fatty acid chains containing ester linkages.

Among the preferred cationic surfactants, mention may be made ofcompounds of formula (I) chosen from cetrimonium chloride,behentrimonium chloride, Behenyl PG-Trimonium chloride, dicetyl dimoniumchloride, and mixtures, thereof.

Other preferred cationic surfactant are esterquats chosen fromDibehenoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Dipalmitoylethyl Dimonium Chloride,Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride, Ditallowoyl PG-dimonium Chloride,Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, Distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures, thereof.

Without being bound by any one theory, it is believed that the presenceof an ionic surfactant, particularly, at the time of making thedispersion, reduces or minimizes the aggregation of the solid waxparticles in the aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure. Thus, thesurfactant mixture comprising at least one ionic surfactant acts as adispersant to facilitate the uniform dispersion of the solid waxparticles and to enhance the stabilization of the dispersion itself.

In certain embodiments of the present disclosure, the surfactant mixturecontains at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionicsurfactant comprising at least one anionic surfactant.

In other embodiments, the surfactant mixture contains at least onenonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant comprising atleast one cationic surfactant.

In preferred embodiments, the surfactant mixture contains at least onenonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant comprising atleast one anionic surfactant wherein the surfactant mixture is free ofcationic surfactants.

In yet other preferred embodiments, the surfactant mixture contains atleast one nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactantcomprising at least one cationic surfactant wherein the surfactantmixture is free of anionic surfactants.

The at least one ionic surfactant will typically be employed in anamount of from about 5% to about 40% by weight, or from about 5% to 30%by weight, or from about 5% to about 20% by weight, based on the totalweight of the surfactant mixture of the present disclosure.

Preferably, the surfactant mixture, that is, the combined amount of theat least one nonionic surfactant and the at least one ionic surfactantis present in the aqueous dispersion in an amount of from about 1.0% toabout 5% by weight, or such as from about 1.5% to about 3.5% by weight,or such as from about 1.5% to about 3% by weight, based on the totalweight of the aqueous dispersion.

In certain preferred embodiments, the surfactant mixture of the presentdisclosure is free of amphoteric surfactants.

Amphoteric surfactants include, but are not limited to, aliphaticsecondary or tertiary amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group isa linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms andcontaining at least one water-soluble anionic group, such as, forexample, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonategroup; mention may also be made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines,(C8-C20)alkyl-amido-(C6-C8)-alkyl-betaines or(C8-C20)alkyl-amido-(C6-C8)-alkylsulfobetaines; and mixtures thereof.

Among the amine derivatives that may be mentioned areamphocarboxyglycinate compounds and amphocarboxypropionate compounds, inparticular, disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate,disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodiumcocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodiumcaprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate,lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid,(C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylbetaines andalkylamphodiacetates.

Among the amphoteric surfactants that may be preferably used are(C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylbetaines andalkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof.

Process for Obtaining the Aqueous Dispersions (Wax Dispersion Protocol)

The aqueous dispersions of the present disclosure may be obtained bymeans of a process comprising at least the steps as follow:

emulsifying a mixture containing at least one wax having a melting pointor melting temperature greater than 35° C., a surfactant mixturecomprising a nonionic surfactant and an ionic surfactant, and water atan emulsification temperature above the melting point of the at leastone wax. If two or more waxes are used, the emulsification temperatureshould be higher than the melting point of the wax with the higher orhighest melting point,

subjecting the mixture to a process leading to the production of solidwax particles, at a temperature at least 5 to 10° C. above theemulsification temperature of the mixture used in the preceding step,and

cooling the dispersion thus obtained.

It is pointed out that the combination of ingredients in the first stepof the process and the execution of the second step with heating arecumulative conditions necessary for obtaining the solid wax particlesaccording to the invention in a controlled manner, resulting in solidwax particles that are calibrated to certain properties (e.g., meltingpoint, size, and shape). Thus, the nature of the process exerted on thewax-surfactant-water mixture determines the properties of the particlesto be obtained.

The process according to the invention may, where appropriate, alsoinclude a step consisting in diluting the continuous phase of themixture before the cooling step.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “processleading to the production of solid wax particles” is intended to denotean action of shear type. This shearing action can be accomplished bymixing the wax-surfactant-water mixture using a homogenizer/mixer at aspecified speed.

For example, by using different speeds of mixing, different particlesizes can be achieved such as those ranging from 0.5-100 microns, 1-50microns, 2-25 microns, 8-20 microns, 2-10 microns, and even less than 1micron. It is also possible to use other shearing processes such asthose described and referred to in US2006/0292095 and US2006/0263438.

The amounts and the types of surfactants in and/or the weight ratios ofthe surfactants to one another the surfactant mixture and/or the amountsand/or types of waxes employed may also result in wax particles ofdifferent particle sizes such as those listed above.

The emulsification temperature is preferably greater than 40 degrees C.and preferably less than 95 degrees C.

Thus, in accordance with the process above, the dispersions of thepresent disclosure comprise solid wax particles that are calibrated tospecific properties. Moreover, these particles are preferably free ofvolatile solvent.

Furthermore, in accordance with the process above, other ingredients,such as active ingredients, polymers, and other additional ingredientsas described above may be added during the preparation of thedispersion.

Dispersion

In accordance with the process described above, the solid wax partparticles are preferably obtained as a dispersion in a aqueous and/orwater-soluble continuous phase. Such a dispersion may also be describedas an oil-in-water emulsion or an oil-in-water dispersion.

The solid wax particles in accordance with the invention advantageouslydo not aggregate in the dispersion in which they are obtained, and theirgranulometric specificities in terms of size and distribution index areadvantageously conserved therein.

The aqueous and/or water-soluble continuous phase that is suitable foruse in the invention preferably comprises water or a combination ofwater and a water-soluble organic solvent.

Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the dispersions inaccordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lowermonoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol andisopropanol, glycols, glycol ethers, and polyols, for instance glycerol,ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol,hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol,sorbitol, mannitol, maltitol, and polyethylene glycol or mixturesthereof, C3 and C4 ketones, and C2-C4 aldehydes and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “water-solublesolvent” is intended to denote a compound that is liquid at roomtemperature and water-miscible (miscibility in water of greater than 50percent by weight at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure).

According to yet another embodiment variant, the dispersions inaccordance with the present invention may comprise demineralized wateras the continuous aqueous phase.

The aqueous dispersions of the present disclosure are formulated intohair styling compositions of various galenic forms.

The hair styling compositions containing the aqueous dispersions of thepresent disclosure include a cosmetically acceptable carrier chosen fromwater, volatile and non-volatile organic solvents, silicones, polyols,glycols, glycol ethers, oils, and mixtures thereof.

When the organic solvent is a volatile solvent, the amount of thevolatile organic solvent generally ranges from greater than 0 (e.g.,about 0.01%) to about 99%, and in some embodiments from greater than 0to about 55%, and in some embodiments from greater than 0 to about 2%,by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In certainembodiments, the amount of volatile organic solvent does not exceed 55%.

The cosmetically acceptable carrier is non toxic and may also bedermatologically or physiologically acceptable.

The cosmetically acceptable carrier can be employed in an amount of fromabout 70% to about 99% by weight, or such as from about 75% to about 95%by weight, or such as from about 80% to about 90% by weight, based onthe total weight of the composition.

Auxiliary Agent

The compositions comprising the aqueous dispersion of the presentdisclosure may additionally contain an auxiliary agent chosen fromliquid lipids/oils, film forming polymers, rheology modifiers, sunscreenagents, pigments, dyes, silica, clays, humectants and moisturizingagents, emulsifying agents, structuring agents, propellants,surfactants, shine agents, conditioning agents, cosmetically,dermatologically and pharmaceutically active agents, vitamins, and plantextracts.

Liquid Lipids/Oils

Representative liquid lipids comprise oils, triglycerides and liquidfatty substances such as mineral oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, turtleoil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rape seed oil,egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil,castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, perilla oil,soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil,chinese-wood oil, japanese-wood oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerol,glyceryl trioctanoate, pentaerythritol tetraoctanote, and glyceryltriisopalmitate.

Film Forming Polymers

The term “film forming polymer” means a polymer capable, by itself or inthe presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a continuousfilm that adheres to a support and especially to keratin materials.Among the film-forming polymers that may be used, mention may be made ofsynthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type,polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof, in particular acrylicpolymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas andcellulose-based polymers, for instance nitrocellulose.

Rheology Modifiers

Representative rheology modifiers include, but are not limited to,thickening agents, and gelling agents.

Broadly, the rheology modifier(s) that may be useful in the practice ofthe present invention include those conventionally used in cosmeticssuch as polymers of natural origin and synthetic polymers, including,but not limited to, associative polymers, non-associative thickeningpolymers, and water-soluble thickening polymers.

Representative rheology-modifiers that may be used in the practice ofthe present invention may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic,and amphoteric polymers, including acrylate- or acrylic-based polymers,polysaccharides, polyamino compounds, and nonionic, anionic, cationicand amphoteric amphiphilic polymers.

Suitable rheology modifiers include but are not limited to, acrylatescopolymers and carbomers. Other suitable rheology modifiers include, butare not limited to, cellulose-based thickeners (e.g.,hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose,cationic cellulose ether derivatives, quaternized cellulose derivatives,etc.), guar gum and its derivatives (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar, cationicguar derivatives, etc.), gums such as gums of microbial origin (e.g.,xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum, etc.), and gums derived from plantexudates (e.g., gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth,carrageenan gum, agar gum and carob gum), pectins, alginates, andstarches, crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or ofacrylamidopropane-sulfonic acid.

The rheology modifiers of the present disclosure may also be used asfilm forming agents in the compositions and aqueous dispersions of thepresent disclosure, depending on the amount employed.

Examples of rheology modifiers of the present disclosure arepolyacrylate-3, commercially known under the trade name of ViscophobeDB-100 and commercially available from The Dow Chemical Company,carbomers, commercially known under the trade name of Carbopol polymersand commercially available from Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc,acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, commercially known thetrade names of Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2 polymers and commerciallyavailable from Lubrizol Advance Materials, Inc, AMP-acrylates/allylmethacrylate copolymer, commercially known under the trade name ofFixate G-100 polymer and commercially available from Lubrizol AdvanceMaterials, Inc and polyvinylpyrrolidone, commercially known under thetrade name of PVP and commercially available from InternationalSpecialty Products.

The rheology modifier is typically present in an amount ranging fromabout 0.01% to about 10% by weight, in some embodiments from about 0.1%to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Sunscreen Agents, Pigments, Dyes, Silica and Clays

Representative sunscreen agents which comprise the solid wax particle asdescribed above may also comprise the compositions of the presentdisclosure.

The pigments and dyes, silicas and clays described above which maycomprise the solid wax particle of the aqueous dispersion may alsocomprise the compositions of the present disclosure.

Humectants and Moisturizing Agents

Suitable examples of humectants and moisturizing agents include, but arenot limited to urea, hydroxyethyl urea, polyols such as glycerin, andglycosaminoglycans (GAGS). Suitable examples of glycosaminoglycans arehyaluronic acid or hyaluronan (HA), heparan sulfate (HS), heparin (HP),chondroitin, chondroitin sulfate (CS), chondroitin 4-sulfate orchondroitin sulfate A (CSA), chondroitin 6-sulfate or chondroitinsulfate C (CSC), dermatan sulfate or chondroitin sulfate B (CSB) andkeratan sulfate (KS).

Propellants

Representative examples of propellants include n-butane, isobutane,propane, dimethyl ether (available commercially from Harp Int'l underthe tradename HARP DME), C2-C5 halogenated hydrocarbons, e.g.,1,1-difluoroethane (available commercially from DuPont under thetradename DYMEL 152a), difluoroethane, chlorodifluoroethane,dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, trichlorofluoromethane,and mixtures thereof. The amount of the propellant generally ranges fromabout 1 to about 55%, and in some embodiments from about 1 to about 35%,by weight, and in some embodiments from about 1 to about 20%, by weightand in some embodiments from about 2 to about 15%, by weight based onthe total weight of the composition.

Surfactants

The surfactants that may be employed as auxiliary agents may be chosenfrom anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants such asthose described above.

Shine Agents

The shine agents may be chosen from silicones, alkoxylated silicones,oils, ethoxylated oils, fats, esters, transesters, hydrocarbons, quatsand mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of shine agents include Amodimethicone,Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Cyclemethicone, Phenyltrimethicone,Aminopropyl Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, CetylDimethicone, Alkyl Dimethicone, Potassium Dimethicone PEG-7 PantheylPhosphate, Olive oil, Jojoba oil, Apricot oil, Avocado oil, Castor oil,Lanolin, Squalane, Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride, Octyl Palmitate,Isopropyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Myristate, Mineral oil, Petrolatum,Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-11, Behentrimonium Methosulfate,Benetrimonium Chloride and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous dispersions of the present disclosure may additionallycomprise one or more additives chosen from pearlescent agents,opacifying agents, fragrances, sequestering agents, softeners,antifoams, wetting agents, spreading agents, dispersants, plasticizers,mineral fillers, colloidal minerals, peptizers, preserving agents, andpH adjusters.

The compositions comprising the aqueous dispersions of the presentdisclosure may be in the form of an aqueous system, a simple or complexemulsion (oil-in-water (o/w), water-in-oil (w/o), silicone-in-waterand/or water-in-silicone emulsion types) such as a cream or a milk, inthe form of a gel or a cream-gel, or in the form of a lotion, a powderor a solid tube, and may optionally be packaged as an aerosol and may bein the form of a mousse or a spray. The mousse or spray may containpropellants such as those listed above.

Spray compositions, especially aerosols, typically contain at least onevolatile organic compound (VOC). For essentially ecological reasons andgovernmental regulations in various countries, it is sought or evennecessary to reduce the amount of volatile organic compounds (VOCs)present in the composition. To reduce the amount of VOC and to obtain alow-VOC aerosol device, the organic solvents, for instance ethanol anddimethyl ether, are partially replaced with water.

When the compositions of the present disclosure are emulsions, they willgenerally contain at least one emulsifier/surfactant chosen fromamphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic emulsifiers or surfactants,which are used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are appropriatelychosen according to the emulsion to be obtained.

In another embodiment of the invention, the subject compositions areformulated as water-in-silicone (W/Si) or silicone-in-water (Si/W)emulsions in which the continuous oily phase comprises at least onesilicone oil. When the compositions of the invention are formulated aswater-in-silicone emulsions, the silicone oils are preferably present ina proportion of at least 5 percent and preferably ranging from 10percent to 45 percent by weight with respect to the total weight of theemulsion. The fatty phase of the water-in-oil emulsions according to theinvention can additionally comprise one or more hydrocarbon-comprisingoil(s) in a proportion preferably ranging up to 40 percent by weightwith respect to the total weight of the fatty phase of the emulsion.

For the W/Si emulsions, examples of emulsifiers generally includepolyether-modified silicones having a long chain of dimethyl siloxaneunits which carry polyethoxy-polypropoxy units in the chain and at theends. Examples include cyclopentasiloxane PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone,PEG-12 Dimethicone, and PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone sold by Dow Corningunder the name Dow Corning® BY 11-030.

The hair styling compositions of the present disclosure are applied ontohair in order to impart a shape or re-positionability or re-shapeabilityproperties to the hair.

In preferred embodiments, the application of an external stimulus suchas heat onto the hair may be desirable or required in order to allow thehair styling composition to impart additional benefits to the hair.Thus, the solid wax particles comprising the aqueous dispersion areheat-activated wherein the application of heat to the hair allows thesolid wax particle in the composition to melt. In order to melt thesolid wax particle, the heat applied to the hair has to be at atemperature greater than the melting point of the solid wax particles orof the wax that has the highest melting point, if two or more waxescomprise the solid wax particle.

Thus, in some embodiments, a method of shaping hair is provided, whereinsaid method involves applying onto the hair, a composition containingthe aqueous dispersion of the present disclosure, and a cosmeticallyacceptable carrier and heating the hair in order to melt the solid waxparticles in the aqueous dispersion. The hair may then be shaped orpositioned to achieve a certain style or appearance.

Professional and consumer heating tools can be used as a means todeliver heat or an elevated temperature to the hair. The heating toolscan generate heat through electrical current or heating lamps. Dependingupon the desired style, these tools include, but are not limited to,heaters, blow dryers, flat irons, hot combs, hot curler sets, steampods, heated crimpers, heated lash curlers, heated wands/brushes, andhood driers or their combinations thereof

The above-described method allows one to shape/re-shape or re-positionthe hair on the head, such as to straighten the hair, curl the hair,redefine hair curl, or volumize the hair, and to repeat the steps ofsaid method as many times as desired and without needing to re-apply thecomposition and/or re-wet the hair.

In particularly preferred embodiments, a means for shaping the hair isused. The means for physically shaping the hair may be part of theheating tool or may be a separate device or tool such as a brush or combor curling device. The means for physically shaping the hair may alsocomprise passing the fingers or the hand through the hair.

The steps of the above-described method for shaping hair may beconducted in any order. For example, the composition containing theaqueous dispersion may first be applied onto hair, followed by heatingthe hair, then followed by shaping the hair using a means for shapingthe hair. In another example, the hair may be heated first, followed bythe step of applying the composition onto the hair, then followed by thestep of shaping the hair using a means for shaping the hair. In yetanother example, the hair may be shaped first, using a means for shapingthe hair, followed by applying the composition onto the hair and thenheating the hair. In other examples, the hair may be shaped first usinga means for shaping the hair, followed by heating the hair and thenapplying the composition onto the hair and allowing the shape of thehair to set in place as the temperature reaches room temperature.

The compositions of the present invention may especially constitute hairstyling/shaping, hair straightening, hair waving/curling, hair care,hair treatment, hair conditioning and hair shampoo products.

The compositions of the present invention can be provided in a plethoraof galenic forms, including but not limited to creams, liquid, gel,cream-gel, lotion, foam, serum, paste, semi-solid, solid stick,stick-gel, or a powder, and may be in the form of a mousse or a spray,and may optionally be packaged as an aerosol, prepared according to theusual methods.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention withoutlimiting the scope as a result. The percentages are given on a weightbasis.

EXAMPLES Example I

Based on the Wax Dispersion Protocol described above, aqueous waxdispersions were prepared/manufactured as follow:

A. Aqueous surfactant solution:

1. A surfactant mixture was prepared by adding gram amounts of nonionicsurfactant(s) and ionic surfactant(s) in a container.2. A preservative was added to the surfactant mixture.3. Deionized water was added in an amount such that the final weight ofthe aqueous dispersion (including the weight of the wax) is 100 grams.4. The surfactant solution was heated to about 75° C. in a water bath.

B. Oil: A weighed amount of the wax (e.g., beeswax or phyto olive wax)was heated and melted for a few minutes, e.g., about 5 minutes, in amicrowave (or other appropriate heating device).

C. Emulsification process

1. While the aqueous surfactant solution was still at an elevatedtemperature (above room temperature, such as from about 65° C. to about70° C.), the solution was mixed using a homogenizer/mixer (e.g.,Silverson homogenizer) at a speed ranging from about 3000 to about 9000rpm until bubbles were observed.2. The melted hot wax was added to the surfactant solution close to themixing head of the homogenizer while mixing.3. Once all the wax was added, mixing was continued for at least 5minutes.4. The homogenizer blade was removed and the wax emulsion (dispersion)was mixed and cooled slightly towards room temperature beforetransferring into another container.5. The dispersion was stored at room temperature.6. The procedure above was followed for preparing other aqueous waxdispersions of the present invention using different waxes and/orsurfactants at different levels.7. The particle sizes of the solid wax particles were measured usingimage analysis (microscopy) and/or laser diffraction methods and/or byparticle size analyzer to obtain an average particle size. For example,depending on the speed of mixing, solid wax particles of beeswax werefound to have a particle size distribution ranging from 10 to 17 micronswhile solid wax particles of VP/eicosene copolymer were found to have aparticle size distribution ranging from 1 to 11 microns, as measured bya Shimadzu SALD-7001 laser diffraction particle size analyzer, usingquartz tubes having a refractive index of 1.2.

Table 1 Aqueous dispersions containing beeswax prepared according to theWax Dispersion Protocol above

Aqueous Dispersions % weight of ingredient Ingredient A B C D E Beeswax30 30 30 30 30 PEG-30 glyceryl 2.5 1.25 2.7 1.25 2.5 stearate (nonionicsurfactant) Monosodium stearoyl 0.5 0.25 — — — glutamate (anionicsurfactant) Disodium stearoyl — — 0.3 0.25 — glutamate (anionicsurfactant) Cetrimonium Chloride — — — — 0.5 (cationic surfactant)phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 (preservative) Deionized Water Q.S.Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 Speed of mixing3000 4000 6000 6000 4000 2-8 Solid wax particle size 8-12 2-8 1-6 2-82-10 range by image analysis* (microns or μ) Average wax particle 10 6 56 8 size (microns or μ) *particle size is based on microscopic images ofthe wax dispersions in Table I and showed that aqueous dispersions ofsolid wax particles having different particle size ranges ordistribution were obtained, depending on the amounts and/or types ofsurfactants used.

Example II Table 2 Aqueous Dispersions Containing Phyto Olive WaxPrepared According to the Wax Dispersion Protocol Above

Aqueous Dispersions % weight of ingredient Ingredient F G H I J K L M NO P AA 30 30 30 30 30 30 30 25 20 20 25 BB 2.7 2.5 2.3 2.1 1.3 1.1 2.52.5 2.0 1.0 2.5 CC — — — — — — 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.25 0.5 DD 0.3 0.5 0.7 0.90.2 0.4 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.25 0.5 EE 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.5 FF Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. Q.S. to 100 to100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 to 100 GG3-15 2-15 2-10 3-12 1-12 1-20 2-10 2-10 1-8 1-8 2-10 HH 10 10 8 10 10 158 8 6 6 8 Details of the ingredients in above table: AA = Phyto Olivewax (hydrogenated myristyl olive esters) BB = PEG-30 glyceryl stearate(nonionic surfactant) CC = Sorbitan palmitate (nonionic surfactant) DD =Disodium stearoyl glutamate (anionic surfactant) EE = Phenoxyethanol(preservative) FF = Deionized Water GG = Solid wax Particle size rangeby image analysis* (microns) HH = Average wax particle size (microns)*speed of mixing to make the dispersion was at 3000 rpm for alldispersions.

Microscopic images of the aqueous dispersions in Table III showed thataqueous dispersions of solid wax particles having different particlesize ranges or distribution were obtained, depending on the amounts ofthe surfactants and/or wax and on the types of surfactants used.

Aqueous dispersions whose surfactant solution consisted of only thenonionic surfactant, e.g., PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, or in combinationwith another nonionic surfactant, e.g., sorbitan palmitate, were foundto be unstable, that is, the wax particles agglomerated in the absenceof an ionic surfactant in the dispersion.

Example III Formulations Containing the Aqueous Dispersion

The formulations below (formulas 1 and 2) were prepared from an aqueousdispersion prepared according to the procedure described above andcontaining 30% beeswax, 2.7% of PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, 0.3% ofdisodium stearoyl glutamate and water (Q.S.) and adding an aliquot ofthe dispersion to each of the following: a gel-lotion/pump sprayformulation (Formula 1 below) or to a mousse/foam formulation (Formula 2below).

Note that the particle sizes of all formulas presented below weremeasured by image analysis from microscopic images of the dispersions.

Gel-Lotion/Pump Spray Formula 1 (Formulated as a Gel-Lotion or as aNon-Aerosol Spray)

Ingredient % weight Beeswax Particles 5 (average particle size 10microns) Polyacrylate-3 (23% active) 2 PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate 0.415Phenoxyethanol 0.08 Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.083 Triethanolamine0.2 Water Q.S. to 100

Mousse or (Foam), Formula 2 (Aerosolized)

Ingredient % weight Beeswax Particles 4.7 (average particle size 10microns) Polyacrylate-3 (23% active) 1.88 PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate 0.390Phenoxyethanol 0.0752 Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.078 Triethanolamine0.188 A-70 propellant 6 Water Q.S. to 100

Formulas 1 and 2 were tested on hair on the head of human subjects.After applying Formula 1 or Formula 2 with a comb or with the fingersonto dry or damp hair, the hair was heated using a blow drier afterwhich the hair was styled/shaped as the temperature on the hair cooleddown to room temperature. Upon cooling, it was observed that theformulas did not give a sticky or tacky feel to the hair. When moreshaping and re-positioning of the hair was desired, the hair was heatedagain and the hair was re-positioned/re-shaped a different configurationwithout compromising the characteristics related to styling upon eachapplication of heat the hair and without having to reapply the formulasonto the hair. Thus, it was possible to style the hair in several ways(e.g., helmet look, straightened curls, curling) using differentcurling/styling devices such as the flat iron or a comb withoutre-applying the formulas onto the hair. The formulas were easily removedfrom the hair with warm water and shampoo.

The aqueous dispersion can also be employed in a shampoo formulation asshown below.

Hair Care (Cleansing/Conditioning) Composition, Formula 3

Ingredient % weight Beeswax Particles 5.0 (average particle size 10microns) PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate 0.415 Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate0.083 Sodium laureth sulfate 8.0 Coco-betaine, Cocamide MIPA 5.1Laureth-5 carboxylic acid 0.7 Silicone 0.6 Hexylene glycol, Propyleneglycol 0.9 Polyquaternium-7 0.5 PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate 0.3PEG-60 Hydrogenated castor oil 0.15 preservatives, plant extracts, pHQ.S. to 100 adjusters and Water

The hair on the head of human subjects was shampooed with Formula 3 andrinsed. The hair was subsequently exposed to heat by blow drying. It wasfound that the hair could be shaped according to the desired stylewithout having to apply any other styling or hair cosmetic compositiononto the hair. It was also found that the formula provided a good curlhold/retention.

The following formulas demonstrate the use of other types of waxescomprising the solid wax particles of the aqueous dispersions of thepresent disclosure (formulas 4 to 6).

Hair Styling Composition Containing Phyto Olive Wax, Formula 4

INCI Name % by weight POLYACRYLATE-3 0.46 TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.2PHENOXYETHANOL 0.08 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 0.02 HYDROGENATED MYRISTYLOLIVE ESTERS 5.0 (phyto olive wax) (particle size range of 2-10 microns)SORBITAN PALMITATE 0.1 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.1 PEG-30 GLYCERYLSTEARATE 0.5 WATER Q.S. 100

Formula 4 above provided more shine and a sleek look to hair compared toa formula containing the beeswax aqueous dispersion (formula 1).

Hair Styling Composition Containing Ditrimethyloylpropane TetrastearateWax, Formula 5

INCI Name % by weight POLYACRYLATE-3 0.46 TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.2PHENOXYETHANOL 0.08 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 0.02 DITRIMETHYLOLPROPANETETRASTEARATE 5.0 (particle size range of 5-20 microns) DISODIUMSTEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.083 PEG-30 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.415 WATER Q.S. 100

Formula 5 above provided improved styleability to hair, a tighter curlhold, more shape memory, more body and a sleeker look to hair comparedto a formula containing the beeswax aqueous dispersion (formula 1).

Hair Styling Composition Containing VP/Eicosene Polymer Wax, Formula 6

INCI Name % by weight POLYACRYLATE-3 0.46 TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.2PHENOXYETHANOL 0.08 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 0.02 VP/EICOSENE COPOLYMER 5.0(particle size range of 2-8 microns) DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.083PEG-30 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.415 WATER Q.S. 100

Formula 6 above provided a tighter curl pattern to hair compared to aconvention formula for curling or maintaining the curl of hair.

From the results observed from the use of the formulas above withrespect to styling and shaping hair, it was found that different stylingand shaping effects on the hair can be obtained, depending on the typeof wax used in the aqueous dispersion.

Example IV Comparative Example

The effect of styling hair with a formula containing an aqueousdispersion of beeswax prepared according to the procedure describedabove was compared to that of styling hair with a conventional waxformula for styling hair. The conventional wax formula was preparedusing traditional methods of preparing a wax hair styling productwherein the wax is not pre-dispersed and is directly added to rest ofthe ingredients.

Gel Composition Containing a Beeswax Aqueous Dispersion, Formula 7

INCI Name % by weight POLYACRYLATE-3 (in Viscophobe DB 1000) 0.46TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.2 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.08 SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE 0.02BEESWAX 5.0 (particle size range of 8-10 microns) SORBITAN PALMITATE 0.1DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.08 PEG-30 GLYCERYL STEARATE 0.4 WATER Q.S.100

Conventional Wax Formula, Formula 8

INCI Name % by weight BEESWAX 10.0 VA/VINYL BUTYL BENZOATE/CROTONATES4.0 COPOLYMER ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE 0.5 CROSSPOLYMERTRIBEHENIN 3.0 NONIONIC SURFACTANTS 4.3 (ALKOXYLATED FATTY ALCOHOLS)FATTY ALCOHOL 6.8 GLYCERIN, PROPYLENE GLYCOL 4 CAPRYLIC/CAPRICTRIGLYCERIDE, 14.2 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL PPG-2 MYRISTYL ETHERPROPIONATE, 7.4 BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 AMINOMETHYL PROPANOL0.92 PRESERVATIVE, FRAGRANCE, SODIUM 0.7 CHLORIDE, MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE,COLORANTS, HYDROLYZED WHEAT STARCH WATER Q.S. 100

When Formulas 7 and 8 were tested on the hair of human volunteers,formula 7 provided more root lift, volume, body and restyleability tothe hair. Moreover, the hair dressers preferred formula 7 because it wasless sticky on the hair, had a better feel on the hands, and providedbetter wettability to the hair.

It is to be understood that the foregoing describes preferredembodiments of the invention and that modifications may be made thereinwithout departing from the spirit or scope of the invention as set forthin the claims.

What is claimed is:
 1. A hair styling composition comprising: (a) anaqueous dispersion containing: (i) at least one solid wax particlehaving a particle size ranging from equal to or greater than 1 micron toabout 100 microns and comprising at least one wax having a melting pointof greater than 35° C.; (ii) a surfactant mixture comprising at leastone nonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant; and (iii)water; and (b) at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier.
 2. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the at least one wax is chosen frombeeswax, hydrogenated myristyl olive esters, hydrogenated stearyl oliveesters, VP/eicosene copolymer, ditrimethyloylpropane tetrastearate, andsilsesquioxane resin wax.
 3. The composition of claim 1, wherein themelting point of the least one wax ranges from greater than 35° C. toabout 250° C.
 4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the melting pointof the least one wax ranges from about 40° C. to about 100° C.
 5. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the at least one wax is present in anamount of from about 10% to about 80% by weight, based on the totalweight of (a).
 6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least onewax is present in an amount of from about 20% to about 40% by weight,based on the total weight of (a).
 7. The composition of claim 1, whereinthe at least one wax has a hardness value of from about 0.001 MPa toabout 15 MPa.
 8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least onewax has a hardness value of from about 3 MPa to about 10 MPa.
 9. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein (a)(i) has a particle size ranging fromabout 5 micron to about 80 microns.
 10. The composition of claim 1,wherein (a)(i) has a particle size ranging from about 5 microns to about25 microns.
 11. The composition of claim 1, wherein (a)(i) is of aspherical, ellipsoidal or oval shape.
 12. The composition of claim 1,wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant has an HLB of at least 5and is chosen from polyethylene glycol ethers of glyceryl esters,sorbitan esters, and mixtures thereof.
 13. The composition of claim 1,wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen from PEG-30glyceryl stearate and sorbitan palmitate.
 14. The composition of claim1, wherein the ionic surfactant comprises at least one cationicsurfactant.
 15. The composition of claim 1, wherein the ionic surfactantcomprises at least one cationic surfactant chosen from cetrimoniumchloride, behentrimonium chloride, Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmoniummethosulfate, Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, andmixtures thereof.
 16. The composition of claim 1, wherein the ionicsurfactant comprises at least one anionic surfactant.
 17. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the ionic surfactant comprises at leastone anionic surfactant chosen from acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfates andtheir salts, alkyl ether sulfates and their salts, acyl glutamates,alkyl ether carboxylates . . . and mixtures thereof.
 18. The compositionof claim 1, wherein the ionic surfactant comprises at least one anionicsurfactant chosen from disodium stearoyl glutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate.
 19. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least oneionic surfactant is present in an amount of from about 5% to about 30%by weight, based on the total weight of (a)(ii).
 20. The composition ofclaim 1, wherein the at least one ionic surfactant is present in anamount of from about 5% to about 20% by weight, based on the totalweight of (a)(ii).
 21. The composition of claim 1, wherein thesurfactant mixture is present in an amount of from about 1% to about 5%by weight, based on the total weight of (a).
 22. The composition ofclaim 1, wherein the surfactant mixture is present in an amount of fromabout 1.5% to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of (a). 23.The composition of claim 1, wherein (a) is free of amphotericsurfactants.
 24. The composition of claim 1, wherein (a) furthercomprises at least one additional ingredient chosen from a wax having amelting point of 35° C. or less, oils, emulsifying polymers, sunscreenagents, pigments/dyes, silicas talc, clays, and perfumes.
 25. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the at least one wax is present in anamount of from about 1% to about 20% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition.
 26. The composition of claim 1, wherein theat least one wax is present in an amount of from about 2% to about 5% byweight, based on the total weight of the composition.
 27. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein (b) is chosen from water, volatileorganic solvents, non-volatile organic solvents, silicones, polyols,glycols, glycol ethers, oils, and mixtures thereof.
 28. The compositionof claim 1, wherein the composition and/or the aqueous dispersionfurther comprises at least one auxiliary agent chosen from liquidlipids/oils, film forming polymers, rheology modifiers, sunscreensagents, pigments, dyes, silica, clays, humectants and moisturizingagents, emulsifying agents, structuring agents, propellants,surfactants, shine agents, conditioning agents, cosmetically,dermatologically and pharmaceutically active agents, vitamins, and plantextracts.
 29. The composition of claim 1, wherein the compositionfurther comprises at least one rheology modifier chosen from acrylate-or acrylic-based polymers and cellulose-based thickening agents.
 30. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises avolatile organic solvent.
 31. The composition of claim 1, wherein thecomposition further comprises a propellant.
 32. The composition of claim1, wherein the at least one solid wax particle is heat-activated. 33.The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is a cosmetic ordermatological composition.
 34. A hair styling composition comprising:(a) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight ofthe composition, of an aqueous dispersion containing: (i) at least onesolid wax particle having a particle size ranging from about 5 micronsto about 25 microns and comprising at least one wax chosen from beeswax,hydrogenated myristyl olive esters, hydrogenated stearyl olive esters,VP/eicosene copolymer, ditrimethyloylpropane tetrastearate and C30-45alkyldimethylsilyl propylsilsesquioxane, and wherein the at least onewax is present in an amount of from about 20% to about 40% by weight,based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion; (ii) from about1.5% to about 3.0% by weight of a surfactant mixture comprising: atleast one nonionic surfactant chosen from PEG-30 glyceryl stearate,sorbitan palmitate and mixtures thereof; and from about 5% to about 20%by weight, based on the total weight of the surfactant mixture, of atleast one cationic surfactant chosen from cetrimonium chloride,behentrimonium chloride, and mixtures thereof; wherein the surfactantmixture is free of amphoteric surfactants; (iii) water; and (iv) anoptional ingredient comprising at least one additional ingredient chosenfrom a wax having a melting point of 35° C. or less, oils, emulsifyingpolymers, sunscreen agents, pigments/dyes, silicas talc, clays, andperfumes; (b) at least one cosmetically acceptable carrier; and (c)optionally, at least one auxiliary agent.
 35. A hair styling compositioncomprising: (a) from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the composition, of an aqueous dispersion containing:(i) at least one solid wax particle having a particle size ranging fromabout 5 microns to about 25 microns and comprising at least one waxchosen from beeswax, hydrogenated myristyl olive esters, hydrogenatedstearyl olive esters, VP/eicosene copolymer, ditrimethyloylpropanetetrastearate and C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl propylsilsesquioxane, andwherein the at least one wax is present in an amount of from about 20%to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueousdispersion; (ii) from about 1.5% to about 3.0% by weight of a surfactantmixture comprising: at least one nonionic surfactant chosen from PEG-30glyceryl stearate, sorbitan palmitate and mixtures thereof; and fromabout 5% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of thesurfactant mixture, of at least one anionic surfactant dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmoniummethosulfate, disodium stearoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate,and mixtures thereof; wherein the surfactant mixture is free ofamphoteric surfactants; (iii) water; and (iv) an optional ingredientcomprising at least one additional ingredient chosen from a wax having amelting point of 35° C. or less, oils, emulsifying polymers, sunscreenagents, pigments/dyes, silicas talc, clays, and perfumes; (b) at leastone cosmetically acceptable carrier; and (c) optionally, at least oneauxiliary agent.
 36. A method of shaping hair, the method comprising:(a) applying onto the hair, a hair styling composition containing anaqueous dispersion and a cosmetically acceptable carrier, the aqueousdispersion comprising: (i) at least one solid wax particle having aparticle size ranging from equal to or greater than 1 micron to about100 microns and comprising at least one wax having a melting point ofgreater than 35° C.; (ii) a surfactant mixture comprising at least onenonionic surfactant and at least one ionic surfactant; and (iii) water;and (b) heating the hair in order to melt the at least one solid waxparticle.
 37. The method of claim 36, wherein the at least one wax ischosen from beeswax, hydrogenated myristyl olive esters, hydrogenatedstearyl olive esters, VP/eicosene copolymer, ditrimethyloylpropanetetrastearate, and silsesquioxane resin wax.
 38. The method of claim 32,wherein the melting point of the least one wax ranges from greater than35° C. to about 250° C.
 39. The method of claim 32, wherein the meltingpoint of the least one wax ranges from about 40° C. to about 100° C. 40.The method of claim 36, wherein the at least one wax is present in anamount of from about 10 to about 80% by weight, based on the totalweight of the aqueous dispersion.
 41. The method of claim 36, whereinthe at least one wax is present in an amount of from about 20% to about40% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous dispersion. 42.The method of claim 36, wherein the at least one wax has a hardnessvalue of from about 0.001 MPa to about 15 MPa.
 43. The method of claim36, wherein the at least one wax has a hardness value of from about 3MPa to about 10 MPa.
 44. The method of claim 36, wherein the at leastone solid wax particle has a particle size ranging from about 1 micronto about 50 microns.
 45. The method of claim 36, wherein the at leastone solid wax particle has a particle size ranging from about 2 micronsto about 25 microns.
 46. The method of claim 36, wherein the at leastone solid wax particle is of a spherical, ellipsoidal or oval shape. 47.The method of claim 36, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant hasan HLB of at least 5 and is chosen from polyethylene glycol ethers ofglyceryl esters, sorbitan esters, and mixtures thereof.
 48. The methodof claim 36, wherein the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen fromPEG-30 glyceryl stearate and sorbitan palmitate.
 49. The method of claim36, wherein the at least one ionic surfactant comprises at least onecationic surfactant.
 50. The method of claim 36, wherein the at leastone ionic surfactant comprises at least one cationic surfactant chosenfrom cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, Dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmoniummethosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
 51. The method of claim 36, whereinthe at least one ionic surfactant comprises at least one anionicsurfactant.
 52. The method of claim 36, wherein the at least one ionicsurfactant comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen from acylglutamates, alkyl sulfates and their salts, alkyl ether sulfates andtheir salts, acyl glutamates, alkyl ether carboxylates and mixturesthereof.
 53. The method of claim 36, wherein the at least one ionicsurfactant comprises at least one anionic surfactant chosen fromdisodium stearoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate.
 54. Themethod of claim 36, wherein the at least one ionic surfactant is presentin an amount of from about 5% to about 30% by weight, based on the totalweight of (a)(ii).
 55. The method of claim 36, wherein the at least oneionic surfactant is present in an amount of from about 5% to about 20%by weight, based on the total weight of (a)(ii).
 56. The method of claim36, wherein the surfactant mixture is present in an amount of from about1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.57. The method of claim 36, wherein the surfactant mixture is present inan amount of from about 1.5% to about 3% by weight, based on the totalweight of the composition.
 58. The method of claim 36, wherein thesurfactant mixture is free of amphoteric surfactants.
 59. The method ofclaim 36, wherein the at least one wax is present in an amount of fromabout 1% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of thecomposition.
 60. The method of claim 36, wherein the at least one wax ispresent in an amount of from about 2% to about 5% by weight, based onthe total weight of the composition.
 61. The method of claim 36, whereinthe cosmetically acceptable carrier is chosen from water, volatileorganic solvents, non-volatile organic solvents, silicones, polyols,glycols, glycol ethers, oils, and mixtures thereof.
 62. The method ofclaim 36, wherein the solid wax particle further comprises at least oneadditional ingredient chosen from waxes having melting points of 35° C.or less, oils, emulsifying polymers, sunscreen agents, pigments/dyes,silicas talc, clays, and perfumes
 63. The method of claim 36, whereinthe composition and/or the aqueous dispersion further comprises anauxiliary agent chosen from liquid lipids/oils, film forming polymers,rheology modifiers, sunscreens agents, pigments, dyes, silica, clays,humectants and moisturizing agents, propellants, surfactants, shineagents, emulsifying agents, structuring agents, conditioning agents,cosmetically, dermatologically and pharmaceutically active agents,vitamins, and plant extracts.
 64. The method of claim 36, wherein thecomposition further comprises at least one film forming polymer chosenfrom acrylate- or acrylic-based polymers and cellulose-based thickeningagents.
 65. The method of claim 36, wherein the composition furthercomprises a volatile organic solvent.
 66. The method of claim 36,wherein the composition further comprises a propellant.
 67. The methodof claim 36, further comprising a step of shaping the hair.